FAQ

Our manuals are in the works! Check back soon for updates!

Most likely the question that is asked the most. There is so much to choose from, but how will I know what I want the most? We have two line ups of boards, the Originals, and the SuperSports. The SuperSports speak for themselves, they are pretty much super compared to our original line up of boards. Their set up has much more torque and much more top speed than the original line up. They are just much more efficient altogether than the original line up, especially if you're looking to get gear drives on them as well. The aim of SuperSports is to achieve some of the peak performance you can get on a board. The main two differences between the Nazare and Lonestar models (whether it's Original or SuperSport) are that the Nazare has a lower profile to the ground and the Lonestar higher as it has more batteries in the enclosure. Here's a list of what comes with the Originals vs the SuperSports.

If you don't mind a scratched carbon fibre enclosure and the occasional pebble in the pulleys, then yes. It was designed for tarmac but can handle gravel like a GD champ.

Snow is iffy, it's definitely possible but keep note that your board may not function properly if you're riding in sludge/deep snow and possibly damage the inner components. Our tires are made for street use, it would be very hard for it to get traction as there is no grip/knobs on them.

Sand riding is very hard, traction is extremely hard to get on sand. Even if you do accomplish on getting on some really good compacted sand, water/salt is 100% most likely in the vicinity (It really doesn't mix well for the boards). Again we recommend against it, don't ruin your board for the miles you can get on the street for the one or few times you'll have on a beach.

The boards come stock with a set of titanium pulleys that are 16 teeth (16T) and 18 teeth (18T) and an optional 20 teeth (20T). In a nutshell, the 16T pulley has the most torque, the lowest top speed (33 mph) and the lowest range. The 20T pulley has the highest top speed (40 mph+), the least torque (still plenty...), and the most range (up to 10% more). Some people choose the 20T because they are speed demons, others choose it because it provides the most range.

The maximum we have seen a rider go was about 45 mph. We advise to never attempt to reach it and if you do so, do it in a controlled environment with full leather gear.

It's not an easy question to answer, since there's so much you can expect in a day to day which give or take away range.

Some of the basic variables are as follows:

- Ride style, you ride hard, you push the board to some of its peak performance which consumes more power. We've seen people feather the remote getting a magical amount of range we haven't even seen.
- Environment (cold weather can cause lower range)
- How pumped are your tires (Max PSI is optimal for having as little rolling resistance!)
- Your bearings have an effect on your ride, no one likes having bearings that don't roll happy
- Belt tensioning is a huge one, the tighter they are the more drag and force your motors need to make in order to make a full rotation.
- Lastly, of course is weight. More weight is more load for the board to pull. Consider carrying lighter gear if you want to get even a little extra bit of range!
Here's a chart comparing our estimated range of our boards.

Yes. Actually, hell yes is more accurate.

You have the power if and when you need it, but you don’t need to use it if you don’t want to. And most importantly, the board carves like nothing else.

Just like a GT2 RS, you don’t drive flat out all the time (if ever, unless you’re on the ‘Ring). Same with the Lacroix. Some might do a speed run in a place they know very well wearing motorcycle protection gear and others might never do that, keeping their speeds lower, carving deeper and only wearing a regular skate helmet.

The board was designed to provide adrenaline rushes in both situations.

Not really. Did you learn to drive on a 550bhp, turbocharged V8, short throw 6 speed manual transmission wearing a Leatt brace? Or learn to snowboard while heli-skiing in Alaska?

Let’s put it this way; if you’ve never fallen skateboarding, our board should not be the one on which you have that first experience. The premise on which our company was founded is that the rider is always the limit because the board can always give you more. Our boards are very powerful machines and should only be ridden by experienced riders that know their own limits and above all, respect them. Not doing so can lead to serious injury or death. Nothing less.

We advocate safe riding and this is the reason that with our current model offering, we do not sell our boards to minors. Not even with a parent's note.

None.

It’s very difficult to offer customizations and scale a business (unless you’re in the customization business ;-). Even the slightest custom demand has a domino effect on processes, production, quality control. This is why we don’t do any. Our mission is 1) to make the highest quality boards and 2) ship them quickly. This is simply impossible to achieve with customizations. One of those 2 elements would suffer.

No. Treat them like consumables. Once one is worn, change it. We sell them basically at cost price so you can ride at will and not worry about them.

No, unfortunately we can't do returns at the moment. We're still very small and can't take that risk. We would rather have less orders from customers that are sure they want our products than more orders from people who just want to try them out and see. All sales are final.

We offer a 180 day warranty on manufacturing errors. After that, an additional 180 day (free labor) repair service (shipping not included) will apply. But we want you to ride, so after this period is over, we'll be happy to attempt to resolve any issue you may encounter in order to get you back on your board as fast as possible. Note, after thousands of miles of riding, besides changing consumables once in a while (belts and tires), we have not encountered any serious issue that wasn't able to be addressed quickly. Reliability is very important to us. We chose trusted and tested parts for all of the internals of the board for this exact reason.

If ever something happens, we usually can simply send a new part and walk you through the process of hooking that part up via a video call. All issues are usually pretty simple and quick to resolve.

That is a very loaded word that would almost require the board to work under water. So no. It's not. As much as we love submarines, we're no Pablo Escobars and can't build them.

It's splash proof - it has a foam liner on the perimeter of the deck to protect all the electronics in case you get caught riding in the rain. There are 2 weak points to the board in a water environment. 1) the wood deck is not treated for water. So after time, if water seeps into the wood inserts, they might become loose. 2) The remote. It hates water and will act weirdly (and dangerously if water gets caught into it). If you get caught in the rain, ride with your hand in your pocket.

So avoid water if you can but if you get caught in the rain, don't worry too much about it and place your board upside down (enclosure upwards) and at a 45 degree angle to let it dry and let the water evacuate as best as it can.

Enclosure screws - M3 x 10 countersunk, Philips No.2 - 0.8NM ; this one was for Prototipo board. Now they are much less sensitive to torque because we use bigger titanium screws.

Motor screws - M4 x 10 button head, hex 2.5mm - 2NM; same, this is for Jaws only now. For Nazare and Lonestar, you can torque the motors until you are about to break your tool ;-)

Wheel hub screws - M4 x 55, hex 3mm - 0.55NM; this still applies, although our new wheel pulleys that we use on all Jaws, Naz and Lonestar are less susceptible to being out of true than the old pulleys we used on the prototipo where any slight difference in torque might have made your wheel pulley wobbly.

Motor pulley grub screws - M4 x 6, Hex 2mm - 1.8NM - Jaws only, we don't use any on Lonestar and Nazare.

Truck kingpin - 10mm socket - 13.6NM on all boards.

The Hoyt Puck 2.0 is our standard remote for the time being. It's the most reliable remote we have used to date and we want that performance and quality to continue. It's got cutting edge channel hopping technology. This remote shines if you live in a crowded area where RF interference is a thing (e.g. the Bay area) and are worried about signal disconnection.

We're hoping to offer more options down the line with our own in house remote!

We currently use the Samsung 50s 21700 cells on the Lonestar SS™ and Molicel P42A INR-21700 on all other boards we currently sell. You can expect to go through 500 cycles until the battery pack has 80% of its original charge.

That's a LOT of riding.

Generally, no. When vibrations occur, it’s usually around 30 mph and above. They can be greatly reduced by doing 2 things;

perfectly centering the rear wheel pulley on the hub and putting motorcycle balancing beads in the tire tube.

We currently do not have any distributors or retailers. Every item sold on our store (whether its domestic or international) is packaged right here in the US of A. But more specifically, Seneca, South Carolina.

Like any fine expensive mountain bike, our boards are built to outperform and to be as durable as possible with insane mileage/abuse. The only things you should expect to replace/maintain are consumables like tires, bearings, and maybe a few screws along the way. General cleaning with compressed air or a damp cloth works best.

We now use Kenda and Hota tires, the absolute best tires we've ever used and from experience we have sets of these tires which lasted us thousands of miles before having any issues.

Ceramic bearings are also an optional upgrade, as they are much more durable (harder) than steel, don't rust and have a much smoother/rounder surface than the steel ball bearings. They offer less rolling resistance in turn with much less maintenance needed in the long term.

Screws - It happens, you ride and then you check again, you're missing one or two screws. We always recommend checking your screws before you ride, even just a hand check if they feel loose or not is generally enough for a "test". We use thread locker for all of our screws, it's something that will ensure longevity before the next time you check!

No. The remotes we have used in the past couple years have been the Hoyt Puck 1.0 & the Hoyt Puck 2.0.

Both of those remotes will never need calibration. Just turn on and go.

The remote should be charged every ride or every other ride.

Both the Hoyt puck 1.0 & Hoyt puck 2.0 will provide warnings when they are about to run out of juice, but still, it sucks to shorten a nice ride because the remote died.

We recommend changing the remote if you had a crash or every 2 years.

There are many apps you can use to connect your phone to the board to see the battery percentage. Here are some apps to measure battery levels but not limited to:

- VESC Tool
- Overkill Solar
- Xiaoxiang BMS

Under heavy carving at 190 lbs, the tires will last around 300 miles. Under heavy carving at 170 lbs, the tires will last around 550 miles.

It can be done but will require some DIY skills. The board was designed for 8 inch pneumatic wheels.

Infinitely and yes.

We use our own ESC, the Stormcore™, which means they are infinitely tweakable (tweaking your stormcore will void your warranty). This said, we don't recommend you tweak them. We recommend trying the board for a couple of weeks first. Our customers are generally very happy with the default configuration options after getting comfortable with the board.

There are hardware changes (Upgrades) that can be made as well like different pulley sizes, smaller/bigger wheels, etc (these upgrades will not void your warranty).

The same belts can be used on both pulleys. You can slide the motors back and forth a couple of millimetres to compensate the size of the pulley.

Fully. You have 2 blocks per truck and each block (acting on toe-side and heel side) can be separately adjusted to cater to both the speed machine on your left shoulder and the carving demon on your right shoulder.

The Falcon Gear Drives are our helical gear drives. They offer some seriously crazy performance upgrades,
• They are fully sealed, no more rocks/dirt/debris of any sort getting in your drive.
• They are much more silent than belt drives, the only thing you'll really notice is the sound of the motors chime when you hit top speed.
• Performance wise, they are extremely responsive to how you ride. Throttling forward feels much more linear and responsive, it's a night and days difference. The Falcon gear drives are like nothing else.

The Falcon Gear Drives doesn't require very much maintenance, you may need to add grease once in a blue moon and do some cleaning after quadruple digits in terms of miles. These drive's are meant to last and give you the best optimal performance we can offer for our boards. This is the way.
They are also are locked at a 4.2 gear ratio at the moment, we will possibly offer more options in the coming future! We include a set of axles that are also made for the Falcon Gear Drives as they use a wider profile axle in order to operate.

We've updated the boards in mid-2020 to have a better way to give you more information and aid us in diagnosis of batteries. Smart BMS's can be used in such a way to balance charge batteries even when not charging! It's something that we want to continue to have and be able to keep your battery in safe hands instead of using a traditional multimeter and opening the board up to check.

Anything you buy with a board we'll install it on (if applicable). If you opt for certain upgrades like Titanium axles or a Falcon Gear Drive upgrade, we'll replace the stock for the upgrade.
Things that we do install if bought extra:
• Falcon Gear Drives
• HyperRims
• Rear Brake lights
• Titanium Axles
• Ceramic Bearings
• Over Engineered Belt Guards
• Titanium Pulleys (16T, 18T, 20T)